The Mediterranean garden

The Mediterranean garden at Mas de la Fontenette (holiday rental) is located below the heated swimming pool. Facing the sunset, it is divided into terraces criss-crossed by a series of small paths.

A Mediterranean terraced garden with dry stone walls

The wide variety of planting in the Mediterranean garden

Most Mediterranean plants can be found here. Lavender, oleander, white and red laurel, boxwood, wisteria, winter jasmine, periwinkle, cactus, terebinth and Syrian hibiscus. You’ll also find mint, thyme, rosemary, savory, yellow crocuses, purple crocuses and a host of succulents and/or rock garden plants.

On-site production of many plants for the Mediterranean garden.

We produce most of the plants for this Mediterranean garden ourselves, using seedlings, simple cuttings, stewed cuttings, layering, etc. Below are our cuttings of oleanders, red oleanders, white oleanders, thyme oleanders, classic rosemary and creeping rosemary, passionflowers, wisteria, etc.

Production locale de Lauriers et de romarins

Production locale de Lauriers et de romarins

Production locale de Lauriers et de romarins

Root formation on oleander cuttings.

A wide variety of vegetation in the Meditterranean garden

The trees include white oaks, holm oaks, junipers (known here as cades), maples, pines, lilacs, boxwoods, fig trees, almond trees, arbutus trees and more. The strawberry tree produces edible red fruit in winter.

L'arbousier donne des fruits rouges comestibles en hiver

FAQ / Frequently asked questions about the Mediterranean garden at Mas de la Fontenette

[/vc_row]
Yes, there are rosemary, thyme, savory and mint.

Lavender can be propagated by propagation, by propagation, an effective method for creating new plants from an existing plant. Here’s how to take lavender cuttings:

  1. Choose the right time.
  2. Take cuttings in spring, when the plant is starting to grow actively.
  3. Select the stems. Choose healthy, vigorous stems from the mother lavender. The cuttings should be about 7 to 10 centimetres long and free of flowers.
  4. Prepare the cuttings. Remove the lower leaves from each cutting, leaving a few leaves on the top. Make sure the cuttings are cut cleanly with a sharp knife to avoid crushing the tissue.
  5. Prepare the substrate. Use a light, well-drained mix to plant the cuttings, such as a mixture of garden potting soil and sand or perlite. Lightly moisten the substrate before planting.
  6. Plant the cuttings. Make holes in the substrate with a pencil or stick, then carefully insert the prepared cuttings into the holes. Pack the substrate lightly around the cuttings to ensure good contact.
  7. Cover the plant with a transparent plastic cover to keep out moisture and let in light. Leave it like this for 1 month.
  8. Rooting. Place the pots in a bright but shady spot, out of direct sunlight. Keep the substrate moist but not soggy, watering lightly as required.
  9. Waiting. Lavender cuttings will take several weeks to root. Make sure you keep an eye on the humidity of the substrate and provide good lighting during this period.
  10. Transplanting. Once the cuttings have developed strong roots (this can take from 6 to 10 weeks), they can be transplanted into individual pots or directly into the garden. Be sure to space them about 30 to 45 centimetres apart.

By following these steps, you should be able to successfully take cuttings from your lavender and create new plants for your garden.

The technique for taking suppressed cuttings from rosemary is identical to that for lavender. However, it is only used when the stems are fully grown, i.e. when their base is beginning to take on the appearance of wood. The best time to take cuttings is therefore throughout August and early September. See our advice on taking lavender cuttings above for more details. The success rate is generally higher than 90%

It’s a paradox, but although thyme grows almost everywhere in the Ardèche, it is very difficult to take cuttings or replant it after extracting it from the wild. The success rate is less than 10%, at least as far as we’re concerned!

It couldn’t be simpler: leave the cuttings to root in a glass container. Once the roots are well formed (2 to 3 weeks), transplant the plant directly into pots, watering copiously and regularly. The success rate is close to 100%

Oleander can be propagated very easily by cuttings:

  1. Choosing the right time: The best time to take Oleander cuttings is in spring or summer, when the plant is in full growth.
  2. Selecting stems: Choose healthy, vigorous oleander stems. Cuttings should be about 10 to 15 centimetres long. Make sure the stems you take have no flowers on them.
  3. Prepare the cuttings: Remove the leaves from the bottom of the stems, leaving a few leaves on the top. You can also cut the stems just below a node.
  4. Hormone treatment (optional): To increase the chances of success, you can dip the base of the cuttings in a rooting hormone available from garden centres. This can help stimulate root growth.
  5. Prepare the substrate: Use a light, well-drained mix to plant the cuttings, such as a mixture of garden soil and sand or perlite. Lightly moisten the substrate before planting.
  6. Planting the cuttings: Make holes in the substrate with a pencil or stick, then carefully insert the prepared cuttings into the holes. Pack the substrate lightly around the cuttings to ensure good contact.
  7. Rooting: Place the pots in a bright but shady spot, out of direct sunlight. Keep the substrate moist but not soggy, watering lightly as needed.
  8. Waiting: Oleander cuttings will take several weeks to root. Make sure you keep an eye on the humidity of the substrate and provide good lighting during this period.
  9. Transplanting: Once the cuttings have developed strong roots (6 to 10 weeks), they can be transplanted into individual pots or directly into the garden. Space them about 60 to 90 centimetres apart.

An even simpler alternative method is to let the cuttings root in a glass container. Once the roots are well formed, then you transplant the plant directly into pots, watering it copiously and regularly.

Layering is an effective propagation method for fig trees. Here’s how to propagate a fig tree by layering:

  1. Choose a suitable branch. Select a branch that is flexible and low on the fig tree, preferably one that is already touching the ground or can be bent towards the ground without breaking.
  2. Prepare the branch. Choose a spot on the branch where you want to lay the layers. Lightly scrape the skin of the branch for about 2.5 to 5 centimetres, just below a node or bud.
  3. Apply a rooting hormone (optional). To increase the chances of success, you can apply a rooting hormone powder or gel to the scraped area.
  4. Wrap the branch. Wrap the scraped area with layering material, such as peat moss or damp earth. Wrap it around the branch and hold it in place with gardening wire or clothes pegs.
  5. Protect the layering. Wrap the layering with clear plastic film to keep it moist and create an environment conducive to rooting. Secure it securely at the top and bottom with tape or wire.
  6. Wait for rooting to take place. Leave the layering in place for several weeks to months, checking regularly to make sure it stays moist. Roots will start to form from the scraped area.
  7. Cut off the branch. Once the layering has developed a sufficiently robust root system, cut the branch just below the layering point.
  8. Transplant the new plant: Transplant the new plant into a pot or directly into the soil. Water regularly until it is firmly established.

Using this method, you should be able to successfully cut a fig tree by layering and create new plants for your Mediterranean garden.

Arbutus trees grow almost everywhere in the Sud-Ardèche. There are several on the Mas de la Fontenette estate. The fruit of the strawberry tree is called the arbouse. When ripe, the fruit is orange-red in colour, with a grainy texture similar to that of a strawberry. Arbutus comes from Mediterranean regions. It is eaten fresh. It is also used to make jams, jellies, compotes and even alcoholic drinks. The fruit is harvested in autumn, usually between September and November, depending on the region. In our Mediterranean garden in the Ardèche, it is harvested in January. In addition to its sweet, slightly tart taste, the arbutus provides vitamin C and fibre